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Cosmetic Ingredient Information:
(Naturally Derived Ingredients)
Natural Sourced Ingredients:
Definition of "Natural Sourced" is having come from, in part or in whole, a natural or organic source at one time.
Obviously, SOME of these ingredients are far from natural, but they may have naturally derived components as their original
source. Do not assume that because they are listed here that they are natural.
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Alpha Lipoic Acid is an advanced antioxidant that helps fight free radicals- one of the major causes of
skin aging. Some researchers claim it is an antioxidant 400 times more potent than Vitamin C & E. Beyond anti-free radical action,
it repairs aged skin, contributing to a healthy looking, glowing complexion.
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Allantoin (Ureidohydantoin - Comfrey) A non-toxic crystal created by the oxidation of uric acid. Has the
ability to help heal wounds, sores and stimulates the growth of healthy tissue. Allantoin is a skin softener and an anti-irritant,
which inhibits allergic type responses.
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Aloe Vera Gel (Aloe barbadensis juice) Expressed from the aloe vera plant which are found mainly in
sunny climates. The leaves store large amounts of water. Aloe vera improves hydration is soothing and healing to all skin types.
Chemical analysis has shown the presence of mucopolysacharides, a natural moisturizing factor. Aloe vera is composed of water, the
enzymes catalase and cellulose, minerals, calcium, aluminum, iron, zinc, magnesium, sodium, 20 amino acids and carbohydrates. Aloe
vera also contains the "youth mineral" potassium. Has renown healing properties, anti-inflammatory and can soothe the skin and
help heal cuts, grazes, burns and insect bites. In 1500 BC the Egyptian Ebers Papyrus recommended aloe for skin care. The Greeks,
Chinese, Roman and Arab herbalist recommended aloe for burns and rashes. In the 1930s a radiologist discovered that aloe vera is
effective in treating radiation burns. True aloe vera is watery and thin. The products that you see on the marketplace that are
thick have been chemically thickened and highly diluted.
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Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)- Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are commonly found in different concentrations
in many products. The most commonly used alpha hydroxy acids are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric and tartaric acids. These mild
acids serve to remove the outer layer of dull skin and leave skin with a rejuvenated appearance. Some of these acids are derived
from fruit sources, particularly citrus fruits, apples and grapes. Some of the alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, are
found in sugar cane. Others, such as lactic acid, are found in milk. The FDA now requires that any product containing AHA's have
the following warning statement: Sunburn Alert: This product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that may increase your skin's
sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen and limit sun exposure while using this
product and for a week afterwards.
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Ascorbic Acid - Vitamin C, also known the topical vitamin C, is available in many skin care products.
Scientific data have shown that Vitamin C will help increase the amount of collagen production in the skin. It is also a natural
anti-inflammatory that helps in reversing some of the effects of sun damage to the skin. By increasing the amount of collagen in
the skin, the fine lines will be reduced. Vitamin C is one of the many active ingredients to topical agents sold on this web site,
and can play a vital role in a regular skin care regimen.
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Ascorbyl Palmitate - (Palmitic acid ester - Vitamin C Ester) A salt of ascorbic acid. It is used as a
preservative and antioxidant to prevent rancidity. Vitamin C is thought to prevent collagen break down and help combat the signs
of aging. As an antioxidant it is believed to remove the free radicals that cells produce. Free radicals have been associated with
skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure. Some experts believe antioxidants are the most vital weapons in the
fight against aging. Most of the damage of our skin is caused by a free-radical assault from smoke, pollution and UV rays. Free
radicals then turn the oils of our skin rancid, which damages the collagen. Collagen is the protein fibers that serve as the
building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care products to neutralize free radicals before they ravage the skin.
Topical vitamin C may help lighten solar lentigos and melasma. Some studies have shown that topical vitamin C provides additional
protection against the harmful effects of the sun. Said to prevent collagen breakdown, which would aid in combating aging. Duke
University found that adding Vitamin C and E to sunscreens protects against UVB radiation.
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Beta carotene - Also known as pro Vitamin A. This is found in plants and many animal tissues and is what
causes carrots to have their orange tint. It is also used as a coloring agent in several cosmetics. It is a precursor to Vitamin
A. An excessive amount of beta carotene in the blood can lead to a yellow-red pigmentation of the skin that can be interpreted as
jaundice.
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Castille Soap - Castile soap was originally 100% olive oil soap. It got its name from the Castile region
in Spain. Extremely mild, liquid with water like consistency. Made from olive oil and sodium hydroxide.
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Calciferol (Vitamin D) Calciferol is said to have skin-healing properties. Is absorbed through the skin.
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Citric Acid - Widely used in the cosmetic industry. Derived from citrus fruits by fermentation of crude
sugars. Used as a preservative and to adjust acid-alkali balance. Citric acid is said to have antioxidant and toning properties.
Citric acid is one of the alpha-hydroxy acids. AHA's are used not only to reduce wrinkles but also to brighten your skin. The
"new" alpha hydroxy acid skin treatments are simply made up of lactic acid (milk), citric acid (citrus), glycolic (sugar cane),
malic (apples), and tartaric (grapes) acids.
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DMAE Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE), is naturally found in some foods. It is a highly bioactive
nutritional precursor to acetylcholine, a key neurotransmitter. DMAE has been found to enhance mental concentration. Often called
“facelift in a jar” by some skin specialists, helps firm and tighten the skin. With regular use DMAE will give skin a more
defined, youthful appearance.
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Dead Sea Salts (Sodium Chloride) Dried salt from the Dead Sea. Sea salt softens the water and can be
used for cleansing, abrasive exfoliate and helps draw toxins from the body. Contains minerals from the ocean. People worldwide
have used the healing power of salts baths for centuries. The minerals and trace elements deep clean and revitalize the body. That
is why in countries everywhere people will come far and wide to bath in hot springs, mineral baths and the Dead Sea because of the
unique mineral compositions of each place. The Dead Sea in Israel attracts visitors because it is the lowest point on the earth
contains a high percentage of natural minerals. In many countries people with conditions labeled incurable have reduced the
symptoms or completely resolved them after being treated with mineral hydrotherapy.
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DHEA (Dihydro epi androsterone) - This is a popular vitamin sold in many health food stores today. Some
people believe that when taken orally this produces a more youthful appearance and a more youthful feel. This is currently
unproven by the FDA. Applied topically, DHEA may serve as a good moisturizer. This should be discussed with your physician prior
to taking any DHEA containing products as the word is still out as to its safety and efficacy.
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De-ionized Water - Water is the primary ingredient in almost every product used by humans from food and
drinks to the cleansing and cosmetic items that we use daily for our personal care. Quality formulations begin with high purity
water. Pure water is a very powerful dipolar solvent so that the naturally occurring supply from springs, lakes and rivers always
contain some minerals, gases and organic decaying materials which may have adverse affects on manufactured products. In addition
to these naturally occurring impurities municipal water systems typically add chlorine, sometimes fluorides, or other chemicals to
improve the health and/or safety of the water for human consumption but which also can adversely affect other products that
companies manufacture.
There are numerous methods for the purification of water as delivered from public water supplies and it certainly helps if the
public system has quality sources for the water they supply. Fortunately we live and work in such an area where some the purest
naturally occurring water is available for our consumption and manufacturing.
The three most commonly used methods for water purification are: 1) distillation, the oldest and currently most expensive and
least effective 2) deionization, filtration 3) reverse osmosis, high tech and the most modern but more costly than de-ionized
process.
We use a combination process designed to achieve the highest form of pure water commercially available. It is a multi-step
process which begins with the public water supply in Clackamas, Oregon.
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The steps for purifying this water is:
1. Pre-filtration, the incoming water is passed through two 5u (micron) filters to remove most of the non-dissolved solid
matter which may be present in the supply system, i.e. silica. 2. Ultra-violet light is then employed to destroy any bacteria that
escape the chlorine which the water company adds to make the water safe to drink. 3. The water then travels through a carbon
filter bed which removes the chlorine and the organic impurities which may remain from the first two steps. 4. The next two steps
are the actual de-ionizing filters which remove all of the ions present, both positive and negative charged particles, i.e.
Sodium, Calcium, Iron, Magnesium and others. 5. The water then goes through two more filters each 0.2u (microns) which have the
capacity to remove any remaining particles leaving the water in an ultra-pure condition ready for the use in manufacturing high
quality products. 6. As a final step the water passes through a purity meter which records the conductivity of the water and
assures that the system is working properly. Ultra-pure water is a poor conductor of electrical current so the higher the
resistance reading the purer the water. Our water consistently reads 20,000,000 ohms which is about the theoretical maximum for
ultra-pure water. Triple distilled water typically only reads about 3,000,000 ohms as a comparison.
Distilled Water (Aqua) Water is the most widely used ingredient in cosmetics. Water is distilled by
evaporating and then recondensing it to remove all the minerals, bacteria and other substances. The major component of all living
things.
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Glycerin, Kosher Vegetable - Vegetable Glycerin is obtained by adding alkalies to fats and fixed oils.
Glycerin is a soothing, humectant which draws moisture from the air to the skin. Glycerin is an emollient, which makes the skin
feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. Glycerin has a high hydrophilic (water) factor and a low
lipophilic (fat) factor. Nontoxic, nonirritating and nonallergenic. Very sweet syrup, about 0.6 as sweet as sugar.
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Grapefruit Seed Extract (Citrus grandis) Grapefruit seed extract is made from the dried, ground seeds
and pulp of grapefruit. It is a natural preservative, antiseptic, a nontoxic, broad-spectrum antimicrobial. Contains water-soluble
bioflavanoids. General sold as 60% glycerin to 40% extract.
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Guar Gum (Cymopsia tetrogonoblbus) Made from the ground seed tissue of plants cultivated in India. It
is used as a thickener and has 5 to 8 times the thickening properties of starch.
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Honey - Honey is the sweet material taken from the nectar of flowers and manufactured by bees. Used
since Egyptian times for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Honey is full of vitamins, minerals, amino acids and enzymes. Has an
emollient property, is soothing and humectant. Emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking
and irritation. Honey is cleansing and antibacterial. Bacteria cannot live in honey, which demonstrates its natural preservative
properties. It leaves a micro thin protective film on the skin.
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Hydrated Chrome Oxide Green - Chromium occurs in the earth’s crust. As a coloring it has been
permanently listed for use as a cosmetic colorant since 1977. Hydrated Chrome Oxide Green is classified as certified purified
inorganic colorants. Which means that they are produced in keeping with the highest standards for purity and have been tested and
guaranteed to conform with the specifications set forth for use in drug and cosmetic applications.
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Hydrolyzed Castor Oil - Castor oil is derived from the seed of the castor plant. Hydrolyzed Castor oil
has been turned partly into water through hydrolysis.
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Hydrolyzed Silk Amino Acid - Silk is a fiber secreted by silk worms. Liquefied silk creates a mixture
of amino acids. Amino acids are what the body uses to build proteins. Silk amino acids are said penetrate the skin and leave the
skin silky smooth.
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Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein - A protein from wheat which has been turned partly into water through
hydrolysis. Proteins are the nitrogen carrying constituents of living cells. Protein treatments are said to be beneficial to hair
and skin. They add gloss, body and luster to hair. Proteins consist of giant chains of amino acids, the building blocks of life.
The amino acid chains are joined chemically by a peptide bond. Plant proteins have excellent skin compatibility and deposit a
protective film on the skin and hair. The film is smoothing and moisturizing.
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Iron Oxide - Iron oxides are classified as certified purified inorganic colorants. Which means that
they are produced in keeping with the highest standards for purity and have been tested and guaranteed to conform with the
specifications set forth for use in drug and cosmetic applications. Iron oxides include Yellow Oxide, Red Oxide and Black Oxide.
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Lanolin, Anhydrous (Ovis aries) Lanolin is secreted from the sebaceous glands of sheep into their wool.
Highly emollient, soothing and softening. Absorbs and holds water to the skin. According to the AMA's committee on Cutaneous
Health emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard
the fine wrinkles of aging. Chemically a wax and not a fat. Extremely effective in preventing water loss from the skin.
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Lactic acid - Lactic acid is one of the many alpha hydroxy acids used in skin care products. It is
commonly found in milk, pickles, and other foods made by bacterial fermentation. Lactic acid is also the source for painful
muscles after over exertion. Some of these creams require a prescription to obtain. These creams and lotions are very helpful at
getting the skin to retain moisture. Lactic acid can help reduce the effects of photo aging, and can play an important role in the
treatment of sun damaged skin. One should avoid getting them into cuts as this produces pain.
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Lecithin - Lecithin is derived from egg yokes, soybeans and corn. Has a softening and soothing effect
on skin. A natural antioxidant and emollient. Emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking
and irritation. Lecithin is made up of many different phospholipids, which occur naturally and are emulsifiers. Phospholipids are
a principal component of human cell membranes. Their structures allow special protein molecules to selectively transport ions
through membranes. Phospholipids look like triglycerides except that one of the fatty acid chains is substituted by the phosphor
compound, phosphate ester. The phosphor compound increases the water affinity of glyceride, giving it the ability to work as an
emulsifier.
Lecithin is a super skin restorative agent and moisturizer. It has the ability to penetrate the epidermis and carry substances
to the right cell level. They also can form cell-like structures called liposomes. A liposome are formed when a group of
phospholipids are placed on the skin; they spontaneously arrange themselves to match their water loving heads together and their
oil loving tails together to form a microscopic sphere. These spheres are similar in construction to an actual cell membrane. They
are then able to pass through the epidermis and act as a carrier of substances that attach themselves.
Phospholipids in studies were found to be hygroscopic, which means they attract water from the surrounding air and hold
hydration in place. They help increase hydration levels in the skin without modifying the water loss rate of the skin.
Phosphatidylcholine, which is one component of lecithin has a high percentage of unsaturated fatty acid chains, 70% linoleic acid
and 6% linolenic acid. Which in Europe is referred to as Vitamin F. Vitamin F has been found to be critical for fat metabolism and
for the release of fat from fatty tissues. A recent German study concluded that linoleic acid one of the most valuable ingredients
in cosmetics. The study found that a shortage in linoleic acid increased acne formation. Also they found that the water loss form
skin is inversely proportional to the linoleic acid content of the skin.
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Manganese Violet - Manganese is a mineral supplement which occurs in minerals. Permanently listed for
cosmetic coloring, including around the eyes in 1976. Manganese Violet is classified as certified purified inorganic colorants.
Which means that they are produced in keeping with the highest standards for purity and have been tested and guaranteed to conform
with the specifications set forth for use in drug and cosmetic applications.
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Menthol Crystals (Mentha arvensis) Gives a cool feeling to the skin and is used as a local anesthetic.
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Milk, Powdered (Lactose) Lactose is present in the milk of mammals. Milk leaves the skin feeling silky
smooth with a hydrated appearance. An effective and softening skin cleanser. Milk proteins smooth, firm and soften the skin. Milk
is high in hydrophilic (water) and lipophilic (fat) factors and has beneficial vitamins and sugars. It has excellent nutritive
value, is packed with proteins, beneficial fats, vitamins, amino acids and calcium. It is easily absorbed into the skin. Milk has
a long standing in beauty history. Many of the historic beauties testified to milks effectiveness with their faithful use of milk
in their beauty regime. Cleopatra took aromatic milk baths, Emperor Nero's wife Poppea bathed in milk and even Marie Antoinette
used buttermilk to prevent wrinkles. The "new" alpha hydroxy acid skin treatments are simply made up of lactic acid (milk), citric
acid, glycolic, malic, and tartaric acids. These treatments are not new at all. Cleopatra's famous milk baths contained lactic
acid, which removed the upper layer of the skin to revel smooth, new skin.
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Milk, Goat (Lactose) Lactose from the milk of goats. Goat milk leaves the skin feeling silky smooth. It
is and effective and softening skin cleanser. Milk leaves the skin feeling silky smooth with a hydrated appearance. An effective
and softening skin cleanser. Milk proteins smooth, firm and soften the skin. Milk is high in hydrophilic (water) and lipophilic
(fat) factors and has beneficial vitamins and sugars. It has excellent nutritive value, is packed with proteins, beneficial fats,
vitamins, amino acids and calcium. It is easily absorbed into the skin. Milk has a long standing in beauty history. The "new"
alpha hydroxy acid skin treatments are simply made up of lactic acid (milk), citric acid, glycolic, malic, and tartaric acids.
These treatments are not new at all. Cleopatra's famous milk baths contained lactic acid, which removed the upper layer of the
skin to revel smooth, new skin.
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Mineral oil - Also known as white oil. This is commonly used in baby lotions and creams as well as in
other cosmetic agents. It is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic. This is a petroleum by-product which can clog your pores. Mineral
oil is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons, and not particularly beneficial for any skin type, and yet, because it is cheap and
stable from spoilage, is widely used in many skin care products.
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Oat Amino Acids - Amino Acids derived from oats. Amino acids are what the body uses to construct
proteins. They are said to penetrate the skin. Oats are a rich source of vitamins and minerals. Oats are high in amino acids, are
a humectant, skin soothing, relieve itching and act as a moisturizer. Proteins consist of giant chains of amino acids, the
building blocks of life. The amino acid chains are joined chemically by a peptide bond. Plant proteins have excellent skin
compatibility and deposit a protective film on the skin and hair. The film is smoothing and moisturizing.
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Palmitate (Vitamin A) Palmitate is a mixture of solid organic acids obtained from fats. First isolated
in 1909 from egg yolk. Vitamin A is an antioxidant that aids in the removal of free radicals that cells produce. Free radicals
have been associated with skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure. Some experts believe antioxidants are the most
vital weapons in the fight against aging. Most of the damage of our skin is caused by a free-radical assault from smoke, pollution
and UV rays. Free radicals then turn the oils of our skin rancid, which damages the collagen. Collagen is the protein fibers that
serve as the building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care products to neutralize free radicals before they
ravage the skin. Research shows that vitamin A encourages collagen production in the dermis, which causes the middle layers to
plump out and efficiently retain moisture.
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Panthenol (Vitamin B Complex) Good for human tissues, used in skin and hair products. A vitamin
B-complex group which provides cumulative conditioning effects after extended and regular use. It is absorbed quickly by the hair
to provide moisture regardless of atmospheric conditions.
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Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (PABA-Vitamin B Complex-Approved by FDA) A member of the Vitamin B family.
Increases the skin’s resistance to burning and the damage of ultraviolet rays. Found in Vitamin B-complex. Some people are
allergic to PABA. Tremendous UVB absorption qualities.
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Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Contains antioxidants which are oil soluble.
Undiluted it should be thick, sticky and brownish/green. Often sold diluted at 1% in 99% soybean oil. When you purchase that
mixture you have well preserved soybean oil, but the properties are destroyed for preserving anything else. Before refrigeration
was available people wrapped their meat in rosemary leaves to preserve it. Meats spoil partly because oxidation turns the fats
rancid and rosemary retards spoilage. Its preservative value has made it a mainstay in herbal medicine. It is made of oil soluble
antioxidant compounds derived from the herb rosemary. As a natural preservative, it prevents rancidity in which vegetable/plant
oils have been made.
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Salicylic acid - This occurs naturally in many plants. It can also be synthetically made. It is used
externally as an antiseptic agent, as well as an antifungal agent and skin sloughing ingredient. It is commonly used in the
treatment for removal of warts in the form of an Occlusal. Salicylic Acid also is currently used for its anti-aging properties in
the form of beta hydroxy acids. Naturally occuring in Black Willow Bark, but without the negative effects.
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Silk Amino Acids: The mixture of amino acids resulting from the complete hydrolysis of silk. The
principal amino acids contained within are glycine, alanine, and serine. Their low molecular weight indicates that the molecules
can penetrate the cuticle in undamaged hair as well as the surface layer of the epidermis. Silk amino acids improve skin and hair
with regard to feel and gloss, and have a moisturizing effect due to their water-binding properties.
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Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) Cleans, deodorizes, softens and absorbs moisture. Leaves skin feeling
silky smooth in bath preparations. Balances pH level and alkalinity. Soothing and relieves itching.
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Sorbitol - Occurs naturally in ripe berries, cherries, plums, pears, apples, seaweed and algae. Used in
hair and skin products as a humectant, a binder and because it gives skin and hair a velvety feeling.
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Tocopherol (Vitamin E) Acts as a free radical scavenger, hinders the oxidizing process in the skin and
promotes soft and supple skin. As an antioxidant it defends the skin. Helpful in reducing scars and promotes healing. Acts as a
natural preservative for products. Obtained by the vacuum distillation of edible vegetable oils. Vitamin E oil is an emollient.
According to the AMA's committee on Cutaneous Health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness,
cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging. As an antioxidant it is believed to remove the free
radicals that cells produce. Free radicals have been associated with skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure.
Some experts believe antioxidants are the most vital weapons in the fight against aging. Most of the damage of our skin is caused
by a free-radical assault from smoke, pollution and UV rays. Free radicals then turn the oils of our skin rancid, which damages
the collagen. Collagen is the protein fibers that serve as the building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care
products to neutralize free radicals before they ravage the skin.
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Titanium Dioxide - This is used in cream that blocks the sun’s rays wherever it is applied. It is also
commonly found in makeup and white melt & pour soap bases, but not in a strong enough concentration to act as an effective
sunscreen. Initially, titanium dioxide was difficult to apply, but now with new micro-encapsulation technology, it has become a
very effective sun blocking agent.
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Turbinado Raw Sugar (Sucrose) Known as a demulcent, which is a substance used to relieve pain in
inflamed or irritated mucous surfaces. A simple organic exfoliating material. This is crystalizable sugar from the first step of
refinement. It has a tan to brown color from the residual impurities.
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Witch Hazel - This is a very common ingredient in various cosmetics and is used as a local anesthetic
and astringent. It is made from the twigs and leaves of Hamamelis Virginiana. Witch hazel commonly purchased contains 15 to 20%
ethyl alcohol or is left in its original steam distilled form.
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Xanthan Gum (Polysaccharide gum) Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide (natural sugar) fermented from corn
sugar. Often used in the food industry to thicken and stabilize products. It can be added to thicken a cosmetic product. It is
difficult to work with since it does not fully dissolve in water.
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Zinc Oxide (Flowers of Zinc) Used medicinally as an astringent, antiseptic, skin protective, encourages
healing. Works as an antiperspirant. Zinc Oxide is a physical UV filter. Zinc oxide is a protective substance which can be used as
a sun block. Zinc oxide provides near complete opacification to the sun’s rays. Several products containing this have wonderful
protective properties against the sun, and should be used by people who are extraordinarily sun sensitive.
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Natural Sourced Ingredients
Ammonium Laureth Sulphate A compound used to break up and remove oils and soil from the skin and hair.
Produced by combining Ammonium salts derived from a colorless, crystalline product made from coconut oil with organic ether
obtained from the distillation of alcohol.
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Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Ammonium salts derived from a colorless, crystalline compound made from coconut
oil. Used for its foaming properties and acidic pH values. A mild anionic surfactant, meaning it has a negative charged ion that
reduces the surface tension of a product when dissolved in a solution. A reduced surface tension gives a product better absorption
into the skin and promotes spreading of the product.
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Cocamide TEA A fatty acid derived from the fatty acid of coconut oil and glycerin. Commonly used in
shampoos, conditioners and shower gels as a thickener and foam boaster.
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Cocoamidopropyl Betaine A coconut oil, alcohol and betaine compound. A salt derived from the fatty
acids of coconut oil. Betaine occurs commonly in beets and other vegetables. It is used as an emulsifier, thickener, foam boaster
and conditioner. Coconut oil is a highly saturated fat semi-solid oil derived from the kernels of coconuts. Alcohol is
manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more
substances. Commonly used in shampoos and conditioners for its cleansing, thickening and foam boasting properties.
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Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine Salt of fatty acids of coconut oil. An atom of hydrogen and an atom of
oxygen introduced into the fatty acids of coconut oil to make it more soluble.
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Cocopolyglucoside Citrate Coconut compounds with sugar, alcohol and the salts or esters of citric acid.
Citric acid is derived from the fermentation of the crude sugars in citrus fruit. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of
starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more substances.
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Cocopolyglucoside Tartate Coconut compounds with sugar, alcohol, and tartate. Tartate is available from
many fruits but is mainly the by-product of wine making. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar or any other
carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more substances.
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Cetearyl Alcohol An emulsifying wax produced from a mixture of fatty alcohols. Made from cetyl and
stearyl alcohol’s which together form an occlusive film to keep skin moisture from evaporating. They give hair and skin a velvety
feeling. This is a long chain alcohol that actually comes in a powder/crystalline form, almost waxy and is used to add body and
allow for comb ability in hair products.
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Cetearyl Glucoside A compound of glucose and cetearyl alcohol. Cetearyl alcohol is from fatty
alcohol’s. It helps skin and hair retain natural moisture and imparts a velvety feeling. Glucose occurs naturally in sugars. May
be naturally derived. Cetearyl alcohol was produced to chemically resemble sperm whale oil or spermaceti oil. Which was a popular
ingredient in creams that contributed to the extinction of sperm whales.
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Diazolidinyl urea - a preservative in aqueous solutions decompose to formaldehyde and some unidentified
products. The release of formaldehyde from Diazolidinyl urea is dependent on temperature, pH and storage period of the solution.
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Emulsifying Wax NF (Polawax) Plant based, used to create a bond between water and oil. A critical
ingredient in lotions and cream since there is no other natural product that can create a smooth texture. An emulsifier is a
chemical compound that joins oil and water and forms a stable mixture called an emulsion. The molecular structure of an emulsifier
molecule is able to attract both a water and an oil molecule at different sites at the same time. Emulsifiers manufactured from
plant fats have one or two fatty acids removed leaving one or two hydrophilic sites vacant on the glycerin molecule. The vacant
locations on the glycerin molecule have a high affinity to water while the remaining fatty acid tails attract oily compounds. An
emulsifier molecules act as intermediary to bind water and oil. The resulting compounds are called monogycerides and diglycerides
which represent an important class of natural emulsifiers.
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Ethyl Alcohol - Also known as ethanol. Also known as alcohol colloquially, and is used as a solvent and
is widely used in the cosmetic industry. Many cosmetics consist mainly of alcohol, such as aftershave lotion and some colognes, as
well as many deodorants and mouth washes. It is also used in some shaving creams, shampoos and other skin lotions. Ethanol is
clear and is quite flammable with a relatively good taste.
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Germaben II - is a liquid preservative system with the following composition:
Diazolidinyl urea - 30%
Methylparaben - 11%
Propylparaben - 3%
Propylene Glycol - 56%
Germaben II is a clear viscous liquid with a characteristic mild odor. It is readily soluble at a level of 1.0% in both aqueous
solutions and oil/water emulsions. Germaben II is a convenient, ready to-use complete antimicrobial preservative system with a
broad spectrum of activity. The solubilized combination of Germall II with methylparaben and propylparaben is effective against
Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and against yeast and mold. Germaben II can be used without additional co-preservatives
and is compatible with essentially all cosmetic ingredients, including surfactants and proteins.
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Germall Plus - One of the newer preservatives, Germall Plus Liquid is water soluble and works
wonderfully with virtually all Oil and Water emulsions. This preservative is highly effective in inhibiting the growth of
bacteria, yeasts, fungus and molds even at very low concentrations, making it extremely cost effective. Usual recommended use
level: 0.1%-0.5% of total formulation weight. Add to finished formulation at temps of 122F and lower. INCI : Propylene Glycol &
Diazolidinyl Urea & Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate.
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Glycolic Acid - This is the most commonly used form of alpha hydroxy acid. It can be used in both low
and high strength. Lower strength glycolic acids are used in many over-the-counter skin care products, whereas office lunchtime
peels can be a stronger version applied at either a dermatologist ‘s or a plastic surgeon’s office. Some salons are also applying
a stronger version of glycolic acid. Glycolic acid application can be an important adjunct in maintaining a youthful skin care
regimen.
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Hyaluronic Acid - This is a natural protein found in multiple body secretions. It is used as a cosmetic
topically. It also helps reduce swelling because it absorbs moisture.
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Imidazolidinyl Urea - Imidazolidinyl urea a preservative in aqueous solutions decompose to formaldehyde
and some unidentified products. The release of formaldehyde from imidazolidinyl urea is dependent on temperature, pH and storage
period of the solution.
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Kojic Acid - This is a form of bleaching agent which is rather effective at reducing pigmentation
irregularities. Please refer to hydroquinone for discussion of pigmentation agents.
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Lanolin - Also known as wool fat, or wool wax. It is a product of the oil glands of sheep and is used
in many cosmetic skin care products. It can cause allergic reactions and skin rashes. It does not have any particular advantages
in treating wrinkles. Lanolin is not very helpful in treating topical skin rashes.
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LiquaPar PE - is a 100% active, clear, stable, liquid blend of isopropyl, isobutyl, and n-butyl esters
of para hydroxybenzoic acid with phenoxyethanol. This combination of parabens and phenoxyethanol is effective against
Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria, yeast, and mold providing broad spectrum activity for worldwide formulations. The
potentiator effect of phenoxyethanol facilitates use of the LiquaPar Oil technology in nonionic emulsion systems where paraben
efficacy might otherwise be compromised. All LiquaPar PE components are approved for worldwide use thus allowing sale of the same
finished formulation in Japan, Europe, Australia and the United States. LiquaPar PE is an active blend of parabens and
phenoxyethanol useful in a wide range of cosmetic formulations including anhydrous systems. The potentiating effect of
phenoxyethanol combined with the highly effective paraben blend provides an effective preservative system for even difficult to
preserve nonionic emulsions. In most systems LiquaPar PE should be incorporated at a concentration of 1.0% by weight of the
finished formulation.
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Magnesium Sulfate USP - (Epsom Salts) A soaking aid for minor sprains, muscle aches and bruises. A
water softener and bath additive.
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Methyl Paraben - (Methyl p-Hydroxybenzoate) Methyl p-Hydroxybenzoate comes from the combination of
denatured wood alcohol and benzoic acid. Benzoic acid occurs naturally in cherry bark, raspberries, tea, anise and cassia bark. It
is neutral, nontoxic, safe to use, nonirritating, nonsensitizing and nonpoisonous. It is one of the most commonly used
preservative in cosmetics since it is stable at most pH levels, is broad spectrum and water soluble.
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Optiphen - is a unique liquid preservative formulation that consists of phenoxyethanol and an emollient
base. The primary active ingredient is 2-phenoxyethanol, which is an aromatic ether alcohol often utilized for preservation of
personal care products. The secondary ingredient, caprylyl glycol, also known as 1,2-octanediol, functions as the emollient base.
Optiphen is a clear liquid-preservative that can be easily added directly to the formulation during pre- or post-emulsification at
or below 80°C. There are no pH restrictions in formulating with Optiphen. Optiphen is compatible with most ingredients used in the
personal care industry.
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Polysorbate 20 - (Emulsifier) Widely used emulsifier, a vicious oily liquid derived from lauric acid.
Lauric acid is a common constituent of coconut oil. Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant, meaning it has no electrical charge.
A surfactant is a wetting (surface active) agent that lowers the water surface tension permitting it to penetrate more easily.
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Propylene Glycol - Often derived from lactic acid, glucose, or seaweed. The most common moisture
carrying ingredient other than water used in cosmetics because it moisturizes better than glycerin. Is used as a wetting agent and
surfactant which gives a product better absorption and promotes spreading of the product on the skin. Originally derived from
brown algae and since mixed with a few other goodies, the chemical has been used for almost a century in one form or another.
Propylene Glycol is an emollient. Not to be confused with Ethyl Glycol which is used in anti-freeze and other chemical based
products. It can penetrate the outermost layer of the skin cells and carry other beneficial products deeper into the epidermis.
According to the AMA's committee on Cutaneous Health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness,
cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.
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Propyl Paraben - (Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate) Widely used in cosmetics as a preservative against bacteria
and fungus. Esters of p-Hydroxybenzoate prepared from p-bromophenol. Meaning that hydrogen gas was added under high pressure a
liquid oil in order to semisolid fats. Hydroxybenzoate is from benzoic acid, which occurs naturally in cherry bark, raspberries,
tea, anise and cassia bark. Propyl Paraben is neutral, nontoxic, safe to use, nonirritating, nonsensitizing and nonpoisonous. It
is one of the most commonly used preservatives in cosmetics since it is stable in most pH levels, broad spectrum and water
soluble.
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Sodium Chloride (Sea Salts) Sea salt used as an astringent, antiseptic, cleanser and
adjusts viscosity.
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Sodium Cocoate Sodium salts compounded with coconut fatty oils.
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Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is a broad spectrum antimicrobial that is active
against Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria, yeast and mold. It is used at extremely low concentrations between .1% to 1% at
the most. It is active at all alkaline pH levels as well as acidic conditions. It acts for both preservation and neutralization,
which means it can be used in place of TEA (triethanolamine) or sodium hydroxide. It is synergistic with other preservatives.
There are no ingredients used in cosmetics that render sodium hydroxymethylglycinate non-effective. Sodium hydroxymethylgycinate
is derived from glycine, which is a naturally occurring amino acid. Traditionally glycine was used a texturizer in cosmetics. It
is an amino acid classified as nonessential. Glycine is made up of sweet-tasting crystals, it is used as a dietary supplement and
as a gastric antacid. Amino Acids are widely used in cosmetics because they help penetrate the skin. This preservative can react
with certain essential oils, specifically citrus and mint oriented. The reaction can cause your product base to change colors, but
does not effect the effacacy of the preservative. Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate in aqueous solution decomposes to sodium glycinate
and formaldehyde. Glycine is an essential amino acid, and does not appear to be harmful. So, the regulation of sodium
hydroxymethylglycinate as total formaldehyde should not give any additional safety problem to consumers, as long as the maximum
authorized concentration of this compound is maintained. (SCCNFP/587/02)
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Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) is the sodium salt of sulfated ethoxylated lauryl
alcohol. Which means salt of sulfuric acid has been added to the crystalline compound produced from coconut in order to control
the acid-alkali balance; and ethyl and oxygen are mixed and added to make it more soluble in water. There has been a huge scare
centered on the use of SLS and SLES, which stems from the incorrect reporting by Neways Web sites of a study done at the Medical
College of Georgia by Dr. Keith Green. He states that he was not only misquoted but also the majority of the misinformation is
completely false. Also, the American Cancer Society has stated that SLS and SLES do not cause cancer. They have searched all the
recognized medical journals and have found no articles linking cancer and SLS or SLES. Please see the CIR Expert Panels findings
on SLS here. CIR Link
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Sodium Stearate A compound of 92.82% stearic acid with sodium salts. Stearic acid is
a fatty acid that occurs naturally in butter acids, tallow and oils.
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Soyamidopropyl Betaine A soybean oil, alcohol and betaine compound. Betaine is
complicated organic detergents that occur naturally in sugar beets and other vegetables. It is used as an emulsifier, thickener,
foam boaster and conditioner. Soybean is extracted from the seeds of soybeans. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of
starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more substances.
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Stearalkonium Chloride This quartenary ammonium compound adds shine to hair and
improves the ability to comb through hair. A complex cationic conditioning ingredient which demonstrates a natural affinity for
fibrous protein and forms a protective coating on the cuticle of the hair. Retards hair tangling and enhances wet comb-out
properties and overall manageability.
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Stearic Acid (Palm Stearic) A vegetable derivative used to stiffen and stabilize
lotions and creams. Occurs naturally in vegetable fats. A white, waxy, nat |
